houseofpeace
houseofpeace
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“I think to get to the end of it all and to have not to have given anything back, to have been selfish all the way through my career. I always say that it would be nice to actually try and make some sort of difference in the world. I still haven’t figured out what that will be but it’s hard, there’s so much stuff going on all the time, we’re all so wrapped up in ourselves and that’s how we as humans survive, we are completely self motivated. You see it in America, everyone has convinced themselves that they are worthy of something great and it leads to anxiety and depression and it leads to some really gnarly issues that everyone’s dealing with in right now. You see Robin Williams, that was a huge wake up call for America to realise that it’s a country where there are a lot of mental issues and not that much help. We’re always so driven on our own path that it ends up leading to where we are today which is exactly where we were two million years ago. It makes you think that people are inherently violent and we’re not supposed to get on with each other. But maybe there are a few things we can change somewhere below the ranks that mean one day, if everyone does their own little bit we can… I don’t think we’ll all get along, but if we can make things better for a few other people that is good enough.”

“I think to get to the end of it all and to have not to have given anything back, to have been selfish all the way through my career. I always say that it would be nice to actually try and make some sort of difference in the world. I still haven’t figured out what that will be but it’s hard, there’s so much stuff going on all the time, we’re all so wrapped up in ourselves and that’s how we as humans survive, we are completely self motivated. You see it in America, everyone has convinced themselves that they are worthy of something great and it leads to anxiety and depression and it leads to some really gnarly issues that everyone’s dealing with in right now. You see Robin Williams, that was a huge wake up call for America to realise that it’s a country where there are a lot of mental issues and not that much help. We’re always so driven on our own path that it ends up leading to where we are today which is exactly where we were two million years ago. It makes you think that people are inherently violent and we’re not supposed to get on with each other. But maybe there are a few things we can change somewhere below the ranks that mean one day, if everyone does their own little bit we can… I don’t think we’ll all get along, but if we can make things better for a few other people that is good enough.”
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oldschoollife1976:

Beautiful pic of JJF during one of the best heat he has ever done, at the Billabong Pro. 
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parksandrecthings:

I CAN’T
parksandrecthings:

I CAN’T
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highenoughtoseethesea:

Face game strong.
Photo: Corey Wilson
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highenoughtoseethesea:

Shane Dorian leads Joel Parkinson on an expedition through one of the many trenches in the Tahitian reef.
Photo: Pat Stacy
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surf-fear:

photo by Ryan Craig
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highenoughtoseethesea:

Ace, drawing a line.
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surf4living:

parkinson
ph: ben thouard